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Curiosity Insight

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Learning never exhausts the mind

How to Calibrate 3d Printer?

August 15, 2020 By Miranda Jackson Leave a Comment

A 3D printer opens up almost limitless printing possibilities. Whether spare parts, prototypes, or figures – everything can be created at home or on-site in the company. They provided that the 3D printer and the software are set correctly. So that mistakes do not happen at all, you will find below a guide to crucial preliminary work and the calibration of the printer.

  • preparation
  • Calibrate 3D Printers with Slicing Software
  • pressure control
  • What you need for 3D printing

Preparation

The cleaner you work, the better the result. This applies to the handling of the device as well as to the printing process. First of all, it is essential to clean the printer . Especially the critical points like the filament feed. This is best done with compressed air. Afterward, the dissolved particles can be sucked off. The nozzle is another part that you should take a closer look at. Because there is still filament remains from the last 3D print to find, this can lead to errors in printing.

Calibrate 3D Printers with Slicing Software

The calibration of the 3D printer is the basis of success or failure. Because in this step, printing errors can be avoided. There are some sources of error, for example, an uneven print bed. In the case of a ceramic plate, it may be that there is an elevation or “hole” of 0.04 mm height or depth over 100 mm². Even if it does not sound like much, this can significantly affect the print result. When the printer applies the first layer, he tries to compensate for such bumps if he uses the Z-compensation function features. First, the surface of the print bed is scanned in a grid to find bumps. Z-compensation compensates for minor imbalances. To do this, the printing table continues to move downwards (in a survey) or upwards (in the case of a hole). At the same time, the filament flow changes. Something more flows in a hole, a little less in a survey. If the print speed is too high, the thread can break and start again at another point.

A slicer is a program that translates the STL file into a code that is understandable to the 3D printer. The STL file is the template of the three-dimensional object, which is also created with software. The system is called G-CODE and controls the printer, for example, about temperature settings and the travel path of the nozzle. From a slicer, so depends significantly on the quality of the print result.

In addition to handling and setting options, the algorithm of the slicer is essential. Each program has its own, with which it analyzes the 3D object and calculates driving points, interruption points, and layer change. The larger and the more filigree the purpose is, the more accurately the approach points must be calculated. Nevertheless, the printing time must not be too long. Therefore, you should use a high-quality program that works reliably and accurately. There are numerous open-source programs in this area, such as Cura or Slic3r. On the other hand, there are fee-based programs, for example, Simplify3D.

Advantages of professional programs:

  • Easy to use and self-explanatory.
  • The temperature for printhead and hotplate selectable for each layer.
  • Automatic calculation of extruder quantity.
  • We optimized attachment points.
  • Automatic temperature control.
  • Print time can be reduced by up to 60% compared to OpenSource.
  • The fan can be defined for each layer.

The following excerpt from the basic settings, which we consider particularly important, applies to every slicing program. However, some programs may not have a specific function or may be named differently. For Slic3r, Cura, and Simplify3D, the settings are almost identical.

The following excerpt from the basic settings, which we consider particularly important, applies to every slicing program. However, some programs may not have a specific function or may be named differently. For Slic3r, Cura, and Simplify3D, the settings are almost identical.

Calibrate extruder

Use the Nozzle Diameter to specify the nozzle size of the currently mounted nozzle. In the further course of the calibration, you have, in this way, influence on the width of the printed layers. This setting is essential to calculate the correct feed for the nozzle. If this is not correct, too much or too little print material will flow out during printing. For example, if you have a nozzle with a diameter of 0.5 mm, you can achieve a layer thickness of 0.4 mm.

The filament flow can be influenced via the extrusion multiplier. The default value is 1, but you can experiment with values up to +/- 0.1. For example, if the restart points of a new layer form a small filament nose, you could reduce the value in 0.05 mm increments.

The Extrusion Width determines how wide a filament web is. We recommend the setting “Auto.” Then the 1.2-fold value of the Nozzle Diameter is entered. If you want narrower lines, you must also lower the Extrusion Multiplier value to determine the right filament flow.

Ooze Control

Important is the Ooze / Retraction Control . Ooze refers to the print material that exits without the motor of the print head promoting it. For example, the number of filaments should be reduced at jump points. Otherwise, filaments or material heaps form and pollute the nozzle. However, care should be taken when adjusting. If the values are too generous, the printed material on the stepper motor can fray and contaminate the gearwheel.

So that no mishap happens on the way to the next jump point, you can adjust that the filament is pulled back into the nozzle. How far this happens can be defined with the Retraction Distance, as a rule of thumb: Half the nozzle length.

About the withdrawal speed, a starting value of approximately 80 to 100 mm / s is recommended. This can be defined accordingly with Retraction Speed.

The item Extra Retraction Distance indicates how far ahead of a new print path the print head motor should begin to convey filament. The default value is 0. Suitable for the entry is about 0.05 mm before the new train. To prevent too much thread from sticking out of the nozzle to a new print layer. If you are not satisfied with the result, you can change the value in small steps, for example, by 0.02 mm.

With the Retraction Vertical Lift, it is possible to raise the nozzle by a certain amount during the transition of components or webs. A value of 1 mm is useful. This creates sufficient space between the nozzle and the object so that the nozzle does not catch during 3D printing. The higher the value, the longer the printing time.

Set layer

If the extruder of the 3D printer is calibrated, it goes to the Layer Settings. These determine the properties of the individual layers.

The Layer Height determines how high each print run should be. For a nozzle with a diameter of 0.5 mm, the height of the layers is approximately 0.05 to 0.4 mm. The location is about 0.6 mm broad. If you want to print models with narrower walls, a 0.3 mm diameter nozzle is better, as it also reduces the wall thickness. However, the printing time is also extended if you want to print the same model. A 3D object of 10 mm height, 100 mm diameter and 0.1 mm layer height takes about 3 hours. With a layer height of 0.2 mm, it would be 2 hours, at 0.3 mm 1 hour. An alternative solution would be to rework the finished object manually.

Top Solid Layers determine the number of closed faces at the top of the print model. In each case, three layers are sufficient according to experience. The first full-surface layer compensates for the unevenness of the filling pattern. The second level and the third provides a smooth, beautiful finish.

The same can be said for the bottom of the three-dimensional model ( bottom solid layers ). Here are also three layers, as they form a solid base.

The outline/perimeter shells define the outer walls of the 3D model and possible openings in it. If there are small openings or holes in the walls, the value 3 is suitable. This increases the printing time. The opportunities, however, become more stable and stay in the right place.

First, Layer Speed ensures the correct printing speed of the first print layer. This requires a certain amount of experience and tact. Sometimes several attempts are needed until the optimal speed is found. The 3D printer should apply the first layer more slowly than the following ones because it forms the foundation and is, therefore crucial for successful 3D printing. A slower application ensures better adhesion to the print bed. About 20 to 35 percent of the normal print speed serves as an orientation.

Additions

Skirt and raft are the two types of foundation. Skirt (enclosure) is the name given to a border drawn around the object, which is set a short distance from the object to be printed. The printer makes these lines first. In this way, the extruder can warm up and produce a uniform filament flow. For the beginning, 10 Skirt-Lines are suitable at 0 mm distance. A brim (hat brim) works similarly, but it has no reach to the print object and also serves as an extension of the contact surface to the print bed. 

Raft (foundation plate) is a flat substructure, which is printed under the actual 3D model. Especially with the use of ABS, this plate is used. If the model has narrow contact surfaces to the print bed, a raft provides the necessary stability and adhesion. For example, if you print a standing animal with only its four feet connected to the pressure plate. The default values are usually sufficient.

Infill

The infill defines the fill of the object. The filling structure gives the body more stability and prevents warping during printing. Depending on the type of filling pattern, the printing time will also change. The rectilinear design is the simplest and provides excellent stability. Other options are Honeycomb, Triangular, or Wiggle. The degree of filling also influences the printing time and the stability. Usually, 25 percent is sufficient. The larger this value is, the more massive the mixture and the more time it takes.

Support

The use of a support structure (support material) can be support from the outside an object vertically. In a giraffe figure, the neckline could become difficult for the printer. In the worst case, the neck breaks off, or the filament does not find sufficient adhesion and warps. To avoid this, a support structure helps, which grows from the pressure bed and supports the neck from below. After printing, the scaffolding can be easily removed.

temperature

Decisive for a successful 3D printing is the temperature. It can be adjusted both with the nozzle and with heated pressure plates. If the temperatures are too low, the filament will not stick, but will immediately detach from the substrate, perhaps even sticking to the nozzle. If the model is warmed up too long, it dissolves also. So it’s time to find the golden mean.

Which temperature is correct for nozzle and plate, is much discussed and depends on numerous factors. For example, on the quality and type of printed material. Does a temperature level with the ABS filament of a brand, does not necessarily mean that it works just as well with the ABS of another manufacturer. This is especially true for longer printing times.

The manufacturers often recommend certain temperatures for the pressure nozzles. You should also stick to it, to prevent damage to the nozzles caused by too much heat.

In the software, the temperature of the print bed can be determined for the printing of the first and subsequent layers. To do this, add several start points (add setpoints). The first layer should be about 5 degrees Celsius hotter than the following. This ensures that the first one sticks sufficiently on the printing plate. For large models with a closed bottom and larger openings and with a printing time of 4 to 8 hours, first printing webs can be printed with ABS filament (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) at 145 degrees Celsius. After that, reduce the temperature every ten layers by 5 degrees Celsius to reach 115 degrees Celsius. As you continue, lower the heat every 5 degrees Celsius by 5 degrees Celsius. Thus, the first layers of the object do not cool down too quickly and do not warp. 

If the object has many small openings, tight curves or corners, the temperature of the printing plate should be 5 to 10 degrees Celsius higher. Then the print material sticks better to the plate. If it does not hold well, the holes and curves will warp, making the 3D object no longer conform to the template.

Our practical tip: Find the right temperature

A tip, if you do not yet have extensive experience in 3D printing: To find the right temperature, you should generally assume 145 degrees Celsius. If the result is not successful, reduce the heat by 5 degrees Celsius. If it is not as desired, increase to 150 degrees Celsius and compare the effects of different temperatures. Decide which temperature level has achieved the best result and continue testing in this direction.

It makes sense to check the edges of the model regularly during printing and to look at the printing model from above. Loosen the edges, test if the plate is too hot or too cold. Increase or decrease the temperature accordingly in small steps of 5 degrees Celsius. 
If the object is no longer stable, this can be seen, for example, from the fact that patterns become wider or scratch the nozzle almost at the uppermost layer. Depending on the remaining printing time, you have to decide to stop printing or to continue printing. Because when the nozzle is seated on the print object, not enough material can flow out, and the stepper motor of the filament feed eats into the model.

Cooling

The cooling, i.e., the cooling of the 3D object, requires a lot of tact and is not necessary with regular 3D printing. For example, it makes sense to use bridge surfaces as soon as the horizontal curves are closed. If the object cools down too quickly, it loosens or warps. In general, the intensity of the fan and the duration can be set depending on the layer.

scripts

Here is the G-CODE for the 3D printer deposited. Changes should only be made with sound specialist knowledge. Most notable are the start and end codes. There are many fine adjustments here. 
Also, you can program additional work. For example, the printing table automatically shuts down after printing or that a start line is first created as proof. This is stored in the start code. Then he prints a line on the edge of the printing plate before 3D printing starts with the actual model. This ensures that there is sufficient print material in the extruder, that no bubbles occur, and gives a first impression of the settings. For example, if the line is not sticky or too thick, you’d instead break off 3D printing and recalibrate the corresponding 3D printer settings.

Example of a start code for RF1000:

M107; Turn off the fan

G28; home all axes

G90; use absolute coordinates

M82; use absolute distances for extrusion

G92 E0; zero the extruded length

G1 F200 E3; extrude 3mm of feedstock

G92 E0; zero the extruded length again

G1 Z5 F5000; lift nozzle

G1 E-2 F300; retract filament

G92 E0; the start line

G1 F300 E-0.5

G1 X230 Y25 Z0.35 F5000

G1 F800 E8

G1 X20 E25 F1000

G92 E0; zero the extruded length again

M201 X3000 Y3000 Z1000; Acc printing

M202 X3000 Y3000 Z1000; Acc travel

M3001; Active Z Compensation

M3004 S + 0; + n-steps bed down // – n-steps bed up!

Example of an end code of the RF1000:

M140 S0 T0; cool down HBP

M104 S0 T0; cooling down the extruder

M127; stop blower fan

G162 XY F3000; home XY maximum

M18; disable stepper

M400

M3079

This start and end code apply to any 3D printer if it knows the commands. Only the X-axis and Y-axis data must be adjusted accordingly.

More settings

Depending on the stepper motor, different print speeds can be set. The higher these are, the shorter the printing process takes. But the rate is not everything. If the object has many smaller surfaces, slower print speed is better. This includes the already mentioned giraffe or a 3D portrait. A model of large planes, such as a cube, is also a higher speed justifiable. To find the right print speed, test in approximately 5 mm / s increments. If the 3D printer is new, it is better to keep the default values for the first print attempts because it is essential first to get a feel for the printing behavior.

Pressure control

In general, it is essential to check the work of the printer at regular intervals and not to go too far. Because problems can arise from one second to another. For example, if the print material no longer adheres to the already printed layers and wraps around the nozzle like a marble. Or start with wrong coordinates that are below the printed layer. Then the nozzle eats into the filament and is pulled through the entire model.

But not only to avoid mistakes, but a check is also good. Also, to see the behavior of the 3D printer and to understand, because that provides information on future attitudes and potential for improvement in this regard.

Filed Under: Science & Technology, Topics

About Miranda Jackson

I am a chemistry researcher and research various household products to make life easier and enjoyable for people around the world.

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