The pond pump is not pumping anymore? No problem – fix them on your own. That’s not so difficult if you know which parts you need to look at and which are usually the ones that it hangs on. Find out how to get your defective pond pump working again on your own.
What you need
- soldering Station
- milled 22 ring spanner
- Torx bit with an inner hole and matching ratchet
- 2mm drill
- small cordless screwdriver
Preparations at the pond pump
Before you fix anything, you need to clean the pond pump. First of all, free them from coarse sand residue and algae, and then plug them in once again into the socket to see if anything had just jammed and the pump did not want to run because of dirt leftover. If it does not go despite the cleaning, there is probably something terrible, and you have to unscrew the pump to find the fault.
- It is best to sketch the pond pump before loosening all the fittings and cable fixings, so you can see how to rebuild the pump after it has been repaired. If there is still an instruction manual for the pump, this step is obsolete, and you can use the sketch on the instructions later during assembly.
- Generally, pond pump housings are closed with Torx screws and centering pin, so, first of all, it is essential to open the pump housing expertly. For this, you need the right tool, namely a milled 22 mm ring spanner and a Torx bit with an inner hole and matching ratchet.
- Slight blows with a hard plastic wedge or a plastic mallet will disassemble the body parts after you have screwed them on with the ratchet and Torx bit. Then loosen the cable glands with the ring spanner.
- If you have opened the housing, it goes in search of the defect. Here are several possibilities. Take a close look at the inside of your pump and exclude the fact that there is a defect in the windings of the motor or the cables. If that is the case, as a layman, you should prefer to keep your hands off repairing yourself.
- After you have ruled out a motor malfunction, open all the pump under caps – they should be easy to unscrew. Behind one of the inner covers is namely, the most likely and common cause of the function stops the pond pump: the starting capacitor. The bloated, so you can be relatively sure that you need to replace them.
In most cases, this means, depending on which pump you have, that you have to get a new capacitor with the same voltage. Some models are not easy to buy individually.
Repair the pump capacitor yourself
- You have already opened the housing of the pond pump. Once all cable connections have been loosened with the ring spanner, the pump motor should be easy to remove from the housing.
- Now it is essential to get the defective starting capacitor out of the pump motor. You do that by soldering. Using a soldering station, solder the condenser out of the pump’s heart at its connections to the engine.
- Once the new start-up capacitor has arrived, you must solder it back into the pumping heart or the pump motor using the same principle and again with the soldering station. Previously, pre-drill the holes on the board with a 2.0mm drill bit because the replacement capacitor may have thicker connection cables that would otherwise not fit.
- Once this is done, put the pump motor back into the housing and clean all seals of sand residue. All screwed connections of the housing that you have previously removed should now be firmly fixed in place using your sketch or the operating instructions of the pump, including the cable gland with strain relief.
If the condenser was the problem, the pump should run smoothly for the first bump test. If they do not do that, they can only advise you to consult a specialist or possibly even buy a new one – if the engine is broken, the original purchase is often more rewarding than the repair.