We have been using solar energy for quite some time now. Whether for electricity or heat generation, the efficient and economical solution has long brought us to the taste. Why not? Finally, we not only save a lot of money with solar energy but also protect our environment. Renewable energies are the trend in times of climate change. Why not bring the water in his pool to the desired temperature with the help of solar energy. Again, it can be saved in comparison to other pool heaters powerful. But where should the pool heating mounted so that it does not take us any space? The best and at the same time, the most obvious solution is the roof. Learn about the different designs of solar pool heaters and how they are mounted on the roof. Are all variants suitable for every roof?
Solar pool heating for the roof – Diagonal exhaust and inlet recommended.
We at the Rodgau Pool recommend the most common version of the Solarabsorbermatten for the roof. These mats are mounted flat on the roof and have a diagonal discharge and inlet. This ensures that the flow of water is optimal. It is different from the so-called “Z” and “U” variants. Due to their less good flow, these are only used if the solar absorber mats have to be laid over the roof.
Mount solar pool heater on the roof
Also, when aligning the solar absorber mats on the roof, there are different mounting options. Here, a distinction is made between the different types of roofs.
With a pitched roof, you can align the mats either vertically or horizontally, depending on the length and width of the roof. However, you should know that you will need significantly more clips for horizontally oriented absorber mats so that the finned tubes will not sag. If it should be possible, mount your solar system vertically on your pitched roof. The installation itself is quite simple since you only need to attach the top manifold to the rafters. Make sure that the headers are parallel to the ridge and the gutter.
A flat roof distinguishes between those with and without gradients. While the roofs with gradient slope are the same as with a pitched roof, with flat roofs without a slope, you only have to spread the mats on the roof. An attachment is not necessary.
Additional pump recommended
If you decide to install the solar absorber mats on the roof of your house or shed, it is recommended to purchase an extra pump, as the regular pool pump could get into trouble from a certain height pumping the water from the pool to the roof and back again. The auxiliary pump is integrated into the existing filter circuit and, just like the solar system, is located in the return line of the filter system, pumping the filtered pool water upwards through the solar heating before returning to the pool.
Installation and connection of a pool heater on the roof
Most filter systems of domestic swimming pools are designed for the size of the pool and the associated volume of water for circulation. A good guideline is that the entire amount of water should be circulated 2-3 times a day. This usually corresponds to a pump or filter runtime of 6-8 hours per day. A longer duration usually has no significant impact on water quality.
The pool water is now before it is returned to the pool, heated by the absorber mats. Figure 2 now shows the extension by the solar system. Using valves, the circuit can be controlled later, i.e., whether and to what extent the water is passed through the absorber or fed directly into the pool.
Assembly and connection of the solar absorber
Solar absorbers are available in different widths and lengths. Which system you choose depends on structural parameters, i.e., how big is the open roof area, so that no roof window is covered as much as possible. All parts must be already included in the set, i.e., connecting sleeves, end pieces, and clamps. The number of collectors required depends on the pool surface and the orientation of the roof.
The absorber mats are then fastened to the roof and connected. For the mats to expand when exposed to heat, only the upper distribution pipe may be fastened to the ceiling with perforated tape. At a distance of about one meter, transverse support with a hard-wearing band should be tensioned. Please do not choose the group too thin otherwise, it might cut into the mats over time. The unique mount I did not use with my solar system.
The individual mats are connected with connecting sleeves and sealed with the clamps. The first and last track then receives an end cap in a diagonal orientation. Analogously, the supply and discharge lines (usually 90 ° bends) are connected and sealed with clamps. Figure 3 shows the connection of 2 absorber mats. The end caps are used in winter for drainage and allow almost complete emptying of the collectors.
For the piping, a rigid PVC pipe or a flexible spiral hose can be used, which in turn depends on the structural conditions. A rigid hose has the advantage that in addition to the more beautiful optical image and no “water sacs” can arise that cannot be dehydrated and freeze in the winter. The tube should have a diameter of 50 mm. The pipes are now glued directly or at a 45 ° / 90 ° angle with the absorber mats. Here, there are particular adhesive angles, in which the piping can be glued and permanently fixed.
For more natural drainage, especially for more immense horizontal stretches, it is advisable to glue a PVC screw connection at a suitable place, which can then be loosened in winter.
Finally, the new piping must be connected to the old circuit. The heart of the connection is the 3-way valve, which can be used to determine whether the water should be pumped via the solar absorbers or directly into the pool. Three-way valves are available in a wide variety of designs, from the most cost-effective, manual lever-down option, to digital systems with sensors that determine whether the valve is open or closed based on water temperature, absorber temperature, and desired temperature must become.
I opted for the much less expensive manual version and always run the water over the absorber. Only when it gets too hot for me, I switch. The ball valves, which should be installed near the valve prevent, on the one hand, the return (and thus idle) of the pipes to the absorber, on the other hand, they serve as efficient drainage for the winter. Finally, the branch for the return connects the return of the absorber with the performance of the pump to the tank.
Many reports in forums suggest that solar heating makes sense only with sensors, digital valves, an extra pump, and similar (expensive) things. I see it differently, and the water temperature of my pool in recent years has confirmed this. My pool is almost not covered the whole summer, because of cloths in my eyes the picture but very disturbing. You have a beautiful pool, but you can not see it because it is always hidden under an ugly tarp.
The temperature loss of the night (about 4 degrees with me) is easily balanced the next morning again. While I could not reach 23 degrees without heating the years before, I can now easily reach 27/28 degrees. The children can now play for hours in the pool without sitting trembling after half an hour on the edge of the pool. It is no longer a rarity that the water temperature is higher than the air temperature, which also makes bathing in moonlight pleasant. Also, the warmth of the pool over 30 degrees is no problem, which I had to find after summer vacation. It is up to each one when he switches off the solar absorber.
How does a solar pool heater work on the roof?
The solar absorber mats on the roof work just as well as any other solar pool heating. Using a bypass, the solar system is switched into the return of the filter circuit. Here, the purified water is left in the mats using valves and heated there. Then it flows through the performance back into the pool.
In contrast to solar absorber mats in the meadow, these on the roof, of course, have the advantage that they take no space. So you can also use the area around the pool and expand your garden with other great decorating ideas.