Today we are going to learn how to make a solar heater for our pool, for those who have it and who do not have it here have ideas to make a homemade pool. With this home solar heater, we can heat the water in a small pool quickly and cheaply.
- Type T derivation
- Two elbows of 90 º.
- Pipe size stopcock.
- Sixty meters of black polyethylene tube of 20 mm or similar, if you can get it recycled better than better.
- Plywood wood of 120 x 120 cm.
- Screws, fixings, and black paint.
Scheme of solar heater construction
First, we will remove the derivation so that a part of the filtered water goes to the secondary circuit, where we will install our heater, as you can see in the diagram.
The base of the heater will be a plywood plank of 120 cm x 120 cm painted black. We will drill a hole the size of the pipe in the center. In one of the corners, we will make another hole of the same size, and we will have the water inlet and outlet of the heater. We must introduce the pipe, part of the back of the board, through the outer hole and begin to draw circles with the pipe, the more circles we make more amount of water we can heat at the same time. We will reach the center of the board and remove the pipe through the central hole; we will place an elbow to make it easier.
The lower part will be connected to the bypass with its stopcock after the chlorinator, and in the end, we will put the necessary pipe from the center of the board to the pool. The heater can be covered with glass or plastic to increase the temperature, but this is optional. The heater should be placed at a 45º angle, depending on where we live, so that with this angle we can take better advantage of the sun’s rays.
The system is capable of heating the water of a pool of 14,000 liters, on a sunny day, at 18ºC to 22ºC. Splashing in your pool is fun for the whole family. But the fun (especially for children) comes only when the water has a pleasant temperature. Unfortunately, in our latitudes, even in the warm season from May to September, there will always be days when the water in your pool is too cold. A pool heater can bring the water temperature to a pleasant bath temperature within a few days.
The following report shows the construction of a pool heater via solar absorber, which is to be prepared, what has to be considered and which components and parts are needed.
Solar absorbers or solar collectors are mostly mats made of UV and heat resistant black plastic. The mats, in turn, consist of individual hoses, through which the pool water is pumped through and is directly available to the water cycle.
Even with only a few hours of sunshine a day, the water can be heated by a few degrees and thus compensates for the heat loss of the night. This cost-effective alternative to water heating uses solar energy and is therefore harmless to the environment and ecologically unproblematic.
Calculation of the area of solar absorbers
As a rule of thumb, you can remember the following:
If the pool is covered, the absorber area should be about 50-70% of the pool surface. If the pelvis is open, 100% of the pelvic surface is needed!
Larger absorber fields are not necessary, but accelerate the heating of the water or make sense where, for structural reasons, for example, not the south side of the roof can be selected or only a flat roof is available.
Assembly of the absorber mats
Many suppliers of solar absorbers recommend mounting on a south-facing pitched roof at the ideal angle of 30 degrees. If this angle cannot be reached, there are individual brackets that correct the perspective.
From my own experience, however, I can say that even the north side of a roof with 15 degrees, not ideal, can supply enough heat to the water. However, it must be considered that the absorber area should be larger than the pool surface if necessary. In my case, about 18 square meters of absorber surface for 14 square meters pool surface on the roof, of which 4 square meters were mounted on an outbuilding with a flat roof.
It is essential to fix the mats on the roof so that storms of construction cannot harm. It is necessary to ensure that the mats are only fixed at the top so that the material has the opportunity to expand. Transverse tension, which should be pulled about every meter, prevents the wind from lifting and damaging the solar absorbers.
It now has to be considered whether the solar absorbers are operated via a separate pump or over the existing one. Since usually the active pump is designed only for the transport of the water from the pump and back into the pool, the power for the additional route and especially the additional bridging of the altitude up to the roof, will no longer be sufficient. It must be purchased in any case, a new pump. At that time, I decided to replace the old pump and bought a more powerful one. This also has the practical side effect that for the cleaning of the pool, the full power (and thus suction) of the pump has available when the solar absorber is removed from the circulation during this time.